Many Standardbred owners experience a problem where their horse leans into the bit. This is not a fun experience, since often the rider or driver feels like he or she is carrying the horse’s weight with their arms and back.
There are generally three reasons Standardbreds lean on the bit:
Dental problems: Do not underestimate the problems that teeth can cause. Before
doing anything else, you should have the vet check your horse's teeth to see
if they have developed sharp points need to be floated or if there an abscess
or some other dental problem interfering with your horse.
To balance themselves: On the track, they often learn to lean into the overcheck
bit and balance off of it.
As an evasion tactic: They tend to think that they don't have to work as hard
by leaning into the bit.
A result of lack of education: Standardbreds are not used to the bit being as
a sensitive communication device, but as a tool for balance and steering.
The solution to this problem is not necessarily going to a harsher bit, though
experimenting with different bits may be a good idea. A full-check jointed snaffle
is one of the less severe bits and is a good bit to start with. Many Standardbred
seem to like bits with keys or rollers in the middle of the mouth piece, or
a French mouth or Dr. Bristol mouth piece. However, keep in mind that any bit
can be hurtful to a horse, depending on how the rider uses his or her hands.
Bits with shanks are generally considered to be more severe.
In reality, it is the lack of understanding and acceptance of the bit that causes the horse to lean, not the bit itself. The bit my Standardbred mare likes best is a Dr. Bristol. The action on the mouth piece allows the horse something to play with and can help a horse that fidgets with the bit or that is anxious. I also recommend a flash noseband or figure-8 cavesson if your horse tends to travel with his mouth open while being ridden or driven. The open mouth is another evasion tactic to avoid the bit. I have commonly seen Standardbred go from leaning to opening their mouths to avoid the bit, or do both simultaneously.
Here are some exercises that will help educate your horse and develop better communication through the bit:
1) "high, light & wiggly": At the walk, begin by having your horse go in a small circle (5 to 10 meters). Just have them walk a bit in a small circle and get comfortable. Then take your inside rein and hold it 6 to 12 inches directly away from your body (as though you were going to point toward the center of the circle). Raise the inside hand about 3 to 6 inches. Then wiggle the inside hand gently but insistently--and I mean wiggle! Your outside rein should be very relaxed, with no tension. This teaches the horse to give to the bit. They should lower their head, neck, and through the poll, as well as relax the head, jaw and neck.
I found, especially when I first started training my current horse to saddle that this helped her immensely with learning about the bit as well as teaching her the beginnings of bend and suppleness, a problem most Standardbreds have. I found doing this for about 3 to 5 minutes tracking right and then tracking left helped her immensely. As you continue and progress, add outside rein for support, but don't pull. Just use it to help balance your horse. Then add inside leg at the girth, bumping (heavily if the horse doesn't understand leg pressure well yet). The leg bumping will encourage the horse not to fall on the inside shoulder. He may react at first by trying to go faster; just check with calmly with the outside rein if the horse speeds up.
2) Lots of circles (20 meters to 30 meters in diameter), serpentines, figure-eights at the walk and trot. Keep the outside rein firm and wiggle or give and take with the inside rein. When he gives by lowering his head, give back with the inside rein. And bump with the inside leg (especially through the corners) to encourage the horse to stay balanced.
3) Transitions. I would do walk to halt to walk at first. Then walk-trot-halt, and then vary it. Be sure to "sink" with your seatbones into your horse as you ask for downward transitions. Doing lots of transitions will help the horse to use its haunches and not fall on the forehand and thus lean. Be sure to close your legs as you transition downward (canter to trot, trot to walk) so that you don't stop your horse completely. When you go to transition upward, be sure to push forward with your seatbones to engage the haunches and teach him to move forward from the seatbones.
4) Half-halts. As you are going along and find the horse leaning on you or trying to lean through your hands, sink your body down into the saddle, and half-halt on the outside rein. As you half-halt, add leg but do a quick pull and release with the outside rein. Don't just pull on the reins--that teaches him to lean more. If he tends to pull down, when you need to half-halt, just pull the rein straight up, quickly, then release. By adding leg, you are telling him "back of the bit but go forward"; otherwise, if you just use your hands to correct him, he will likely just think that you want him to stop or slow down.
I would suggest that whether you are planning on riding the trails or showing Western, you should take some lessons with someone who teaches "classical horsemanship," specifically someone who teaches dressage or how the rider’s body influences the horse. Check your local tack stores, yellow pages (under Riding Academies or Tack Stores) or contact a group like the American Riding Instructors Association for a list of instructors.
ARIA
28801 Trenton Ct.
Bonita Springs, FL 34134
(239) 948-3232
Fax (239) 948-5053
aria@riding-instructor.com
www.riding-instructor.com
Good luck and keep riding!
********
This advice should not replace that of a good riding instructor or other equestrian
professional, and should be used as part of a complete riding program.
If you have any questions about Standardbred retraining, adoption, or pleasure
horses, send e-mail to Anne Chunko of the USTA Standardbred Equine Program.
Leaning on the bit
by Anne Chunko, administrator of the USTA Standardbred Equine Program
Many Standardbred owners experience a problem where their horse leans into the bit. This is not a fun experience, since often the rider or driver feels like he or she is carrying the horse’s weight with their arms and back.
There are generally three reasons Standardbreds lean on the bit:
Dental problems: Do not underestimate the problems that teeth can cause. Before
doing anything else, you should have the vet check your horse's teeth to see
if they have developed sharp points need to be floated or if there an abscess
or some other dental problem interfering with your horse.
To balance themselves: On the track, they often learn to lean into the overcheck
bit and balance off of it.
As an evasion tactic: They tend to think that they don't have to work as hard
by leaning into the bit.
A result of lack of education: Standardbreds are not used to the bit being as
a sensitive communication device, but as a tool for balance and steering.
The solution to this problem is not necessarily going to a harsher bit, though
experimenting with different bits may be a good idea. A full-check jointed snaffle
is one of the less severe bits and is a good bit to start with. Many Standardbred
seem to like bits with keys or rollers in the middle of the mouth piece, or
a French mouth or Dr. Bristol mouth piece. However, keep in mind that any bit
can be hurtful to a horse, depending on how the rider uses his or her hands.
Bits with shanks are generally considered to be more severe.
In reality, it is the lack of understanding and acceptance of the bit that causes the horse to lean, not the bit itself. The bit my Standardbred mare likes best is a Dr. Bristol. The action on the mouth piece allows the horse something to play with and can help a horse that fidgets with the bit or that is anxious. I also recommend a flash noseband or figure-8 cavesson if your horse tends to travel with his mouth open while being ridden or driven. The open mouth is another evasion tactic to avoid the bit. I have commonly seen Standardbred go from leaning to opening their mouths to avoid the bit, or do both simultaneously.
Here are some exercises that will help educate your horse and develop better communication through the bit:
1) "high, light & wiggly": At the walk, begin by having your horse go in a small circle (5 to 10 meters). Just have them walk a bit in a small circle and get comfortable. Then take your inside rein and hold it 6 to 12 inches directly away from your body (as though you were going to point toward the center of the circle). Raise the inside hand about 3 to 6 inches. Then wiggle the inside hand gently but insistently--and I mean wiggle! Your outside rein should be very relaxed, with no tension. This teaches the horse to give to the bit. They should lower their head, neck, and through the poll, as well as relax the head, jaw and neck.
I found, especially when I first started training my current horse to saddle that this helped her immensely with learning about the bit as well as teaching her the beginnings of bend and suppleness, a problem most Standardbreds have. I found doing this for about 3 to 5 minutes tracking right and then tracking left helped her immensely. As you continue and progress, add outside rein for support, but don't pull. Just use it to help balance your horse. Then add inside leg at the girth, bumping (heavily if the horse doesn't understand leg pressure well yet). The leg bumping will encourage the horse not to fall on the inside shoulder. He may react at first by trying to go faster; just check with calmly with the outside rein if the horse speeds up.
2) Lots of circles (20 meters to 30 meters in diameter), serpentines, figure-eights at the walk and trot. Keep the outside rein firm and wiggle or give and take with the inside rein. When he gives by lowering his head, give back with the inside rein. And bump with the inside leg (especially through the corners) to encourage the horse to stay balanced.
3) Transitions. I would do walk to halt to walk at first. Then walk-trot-halt, and then vary it. Be sure to "sink" with your seatbones into your horse as you ask for downward transitions. Doing lots of transitions will help the horse to use its haunches and not fall on the forehand and thus lean. Be sure to close your legs as you transition downward (canter to trot, trot to walk) so that you don't stop your horse completely. When you go to transition upward, be sure to push forward with your seatbones to engage the haunches and teach him to move forward from the seatbones.
4) Half-halts. As you are going along and find the horse leaning on you or trying to lean through your hands, sink your body down into the saddle, and half-halt on the outside rein. As you half-halt, add leg but do a quick pull and release with the outside rein. Don't just pull on the reins--that teaches him to lean more. If he tends to pull down, when you need to half-halt, just pull the rein straight up, quickly, then release. By adding leg, you are telling him "back of the bit but go forward"; otherwise, if you just use your hands to correct him, he will likely just think that you want him to stop or slow down.
I would suggest that whether you are planning on riding the trails or showing Western, you should take some lessons with someone who teaches "classical horsemanship," specifically someone who teaches dressage or how the rider’s body influences the horse. Check your local tack stores, yellow pages (under Riding Academies or Tack Stores) or contact a group like the American Riding Instructors Association for a list of instructors.
ARIA
28801 Trenton Ct.
Bonita Springs, FL 34134
(239) 948-3232
Fax (239) 948-5053
aria@riding-instructor.com
www.riding-instructor.com
Good luck and keep riding!
********
This advice should not replace that of a good riding instructor or other equestrian
professional, and should be used as part of a complete riding program.
If you have any questions about Standardbred retraining, adoption, or pleasure horses, send e-mail to Anne Chunko of the USTA Standardbred Equine Program.